Sunday, May 12, 2013

fastest animal in Africa


Is not the cheetah.
The first cause of death, in the short term, for an expat, is car accident.
And it’s impressive how Tanzanian apply the pole pole (slowly slowly) philosophy to everything but driving.
They are never in a rush to finish a job, to cook, to give an answer, to walk or to respect an appointment, but when they are driving they cannot stand to lose time.
Driving these old crappy chariot imported second handed from China or Japan, they run as every moment of the life is not expendable and must be saved.
Freud would say is something related with sex or the father, in this case, the Mother Queen, or better, Nyerere.
Or maybe is because it’s not necessary to be a Masaai warrior to be taller than a Chinese and the seats in these cars are so tiny and uncomfortable that the driver wants to end this suffer, at least this one, as soon as possible.
But also I saw so many people suffering to obtain the most basic needs (a doctor, water, food) and at the same time acting like struggling was the only and normal way to reach them, that I honestly do not believe that the public transport driver do actually care about the passengers. Or themselves.
Otherwise I cannot explain why every, but really every day, I was in the Arusha-Moshi road, there was an accident. A bus in the river, another one down the bridge, one just jumped inside a family mud house. And everybody dead.
 The most fierce were the dala dala. Old Toyota Caravan with 25 Chinese shaped seats and as many standing room in four and an half square meters. Kind of private public transportation. One guy driving, another one hanging from the side door calling costumers and waving small bills in the hand.  Collencting old and fat mamas on the fly or men with baskets of live chickens. Space for everybody, for fifty shelling I bring you to Arusha in a blink of an eye.
And running like cheetahs, faster than cheetahs in those narrow and prick roads, overcoming everything and everybody  without decelerating a moment. And between dala dala was some kind of war: you are stopping to take this costumers, so I’ll overcome you to take your next stop costumers.
Of course there were no official stops.
Why they were driving so crazily? Just because they could.
Very late I came to know that the owners of the dala dala were policemen. Renting them to schizophrenic guys to run them. That’s why, even if driving like cocaine addicted, they were never stopped by the Tanzanian police, very lavish in receiving bribes for every nonexistent infraction.
But I have my personal theory: they like to overcome you, risking clearly their lives, because in their back in all the dala dala backs, was something written, and often a picture or a drawing. The meaning or the association of idea of those, was and still is an enigma.
 “Love is the answer”, with the picture of Ban Ki Moon next to one of Gheddafi.
“When I’m rich, you will be my bitch”, and a young girl with the burqa and the sigh of a prayer.
“Jesus is the answer”, for no mentioned question, but the picture of an American rapper
The poster of the 1956 Ten Commandments
And this one, the interpretation of which has ignited a long debate in the car: “zero to hero with god”.
In case the mentioned ‘god’ was intended to be the dala dala driver, we unanimously decided to overcome it. 

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